So you're planning a trip to Marseille where I live

the 2 best places to stay in the city that aren't on any guides, dozens of restaurants, the best beaches, etc etc etc

In 2022, T magazine put out an article entitled “Gritty Marseille, France, Now a Haven for Creatives” written by a Parisian. They were right. Marseille, as everyone tells me, is a new hot spot. (They said it years ago and they’ll say it years from now.) Yesterday, the New York Times published a 36-hour guide to Marseille. The writer has lived in the city for two years. I don’t know her, but she recommends a couple of my favorite bars. (Do not follow her advice about getting an airbnb in Cours Julien!)

I live part-time in Marseille. I’m here right now writing this on my porch! My London-born husband has been here since Brexit, and we own a flat. To dispel two rumors off the bat about the city: (1) The truth is it’s a very English-speaking-friendly city—way friendlier than Paris. (2) It’s not actually unsafe here or scary—despite that being a top Google search result for the city. I have had drunk male friends get mugged in the early hours of the morning, but they were asking for it. I haven’t had a problem.

Kaitlin’s Guide to Marseille….